🔗 Share this article

Whenever curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. However, nestled prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

A Surprise Honour

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has left the family totally shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble shop earning such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary achievement.